On our final day in South America – since our flight would not leave until 7:00 pm – we decided to hike to Fort Duque de Caxias. It was a great morning workout – about a two and a half mile out and back walk along Copacabana beach then an eighteen story climb around the mountain & up to the fort. If all goes well, we will be back home by noon tomorrow.
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Our day in Rio de Janeiro started with a cog railway ride to the Summit of Corcovado Hill. Here at 2400 feet above the city stands the 125-foot statue of Christ the Redeemer. The Christ statue stands over the entire city and is designated one of the seven “New Wonders of the World”. From the peak we could see sweeping views of the city and beaches. In the afternoon we took a glass cable car to the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain, a symbol of the city where we could again see the beaches, Corcovado Mountain and downtown Rio and Guanabara Bay. Heading back to our hotel we made a few stops to see the city’s sites, including some examples of colonial architecture, the Rio cathedral (modeled after a Myan pyramid) and a statue of HOBO Jesus: the viaduct which brought water into the city and Tile Street. Originally, tiles for the work were scavenged from various construction sites and piles of urban waste found on the Rio streets. But in later years, most of the tiles were donated by visitors from all around the world.
Today we visited the Brazilian side of the falls walking along winding pathways viewing one of the New Natural Wonders of the World. Viewing from this side provides a clearer picture of the scope and breath of the falls. Iguazu consists of over 280 separate cataracts across a span of two- and one-half miles – wider the Victoria Falls and higher then Niagra Falls. After a full day at the falls, we flew to Rio de Janeiro arriving late in the evening.
Day 13 was an all-day travel day from Buenos Aires to the Argentine side of Iguazu Falls.
Day 14 was our first full day at the falls. Upon arrival at Iguazu National Park, we boarded a train to take us to the central station where the three hiking trails (metal Boardwalks) converge. Our first trail was to Devils Throat named for the thundering waters that drop and spray unceasingly drenching both photographer and camera. Our second trail was the Upper Circuit which gives you a top-down look at the waterfall basin from numerous vantage points. The third trail is the Lower Circuit hiking down to the base of the falls giving a level or upward perspective. These are not short trails we walked over 6 miles. But let the photos speak for themselves.
We got to sleep in today. We left at 10:00 for a full day Gaucho party at a typical Argentine estancia (ranch) about an hour and a half outside of the city. The Santa Susana ranch is working agricultural farm and breeds cattle and horses. Our activities were typical and atypical – a wagon ride, herding horses and a competition of riders racing to skewer a ring the size of your finger using a stick called a pistole at full gallop. The atypical – visiting a museum in the original farmhouse, getting a demonstration of the proper way to brew “mate” an Argentinean tea. Finally, no campfires meal for us – a sit down smorgasbord of roasted meats et al. with fine wines.
We had an early morning start to discover the city’s highlights on a tour that included the Plaza de Mayo, Metropolitan Cathedral and Casa Rosada (government palace), where we could see the balcony where Eva and Juan Peron made their speeches. The stunning metallic flower sculpture opened & closed throughout the day. The cathedral was where Francis presided before he was elected Pope. The changing of the guard was in the cathedral at the tomb of Gen Jose de san Martin. Then we moved onto the colorful La Boca neighborhood, a working-class barrio, and the old quarters of San Telmo and Caminito, a mix of colonial style homes, narrow lanes, artists’ lofts, and very trendy cafes. Then we drove to the Recoleta Cemetery, the final resting place of many of the wealthiest and most important Argentine historical figures. The grounds here cover more than four city blocks, filled with tombs adorned by works of local and international sculptors, and more than 6,400 mausoleums including the tomb of Eva “Evita” Peron, always heaped with flowers and letters from adoring fans – too bad there was a forty-five-minute line to see the tomb, so we passed. We spent the remainder of the day exploring some of Buenos Aires neighborhoods and the fabulous galleria on our own. Prior to dinner we “enjoyed” private tango lesson with professional Argentine Tango dancers. Dinner was on our own and we headed to a local grill for a dinner of suckling pig and grilled flank steak – big enough for 3.
Today is a travel day to “The Paris of South America” – Buenos Aires. We had one last morning in Patagonia before our flight, so we visited Reserva Laguna Nimez a bird sanctuary on the outskirts of El Calafate. Another blustery day with few birds visible – they must have been hiding from the wind. An almost 3-hour flight got us to Buenos Aires in early evening for an early Argentine dinner at 9:00 and quick walk around our hotel area to see some of the Friday nightlife.
Full day boat excursion to Glaciers NP. Our sail started along the North Arm of Largo Argentino to reach the Upsala Channel to see huge icebergs and the Upsala Glacier, south America’s largest glacier. Then onto the Spegazzini Glacier, the highest of all glaciers in the national park. Now we have seen 4 of the 48 Patagonian glaciers. Back to our hotel for a quick walk around town and off to an 8 pm dinner.
Today’s adventure was to the Perito Moreno Glacier and Los Glaciers National Park. We were on the road incredibly early – early enough to see sunrise at our first viewpoint. The park is the largest ice cap outside of Antarctica and Greenland. The ice field contains the 3rd largest reserve of fresh water. The glaciers ice wall is over three miles wide and rises over 240 feet above the water’s surface. The glacier is viewed from 3 trails over a metal boardwalk stretching over 3 miles. The entire hike draws your full attention awaiting to see the ice caving. We saw a few but I was not fast enough with the camera to capture a good photo. Our guide pointed out a condor circling above but at the distance who could tell. WOW back to the hotel at 4:00 – time for a shower and fine meal at restaurant Mako.
Travelling Photographer 