Full day boat excursion to Glaciers NP. Our sail started along the North Arm of Largo Argentino to reach the Upsala Channel to see huge icebergs and the Upsala Glacier, south America’s largest glacier. Then onto the Spegazzini Glacier, the highest of all glaciers in the national park. Now we have seen 4 of the 48 Patagonian glaciers. Back to our hotel for a quick walk around town and off to an 8 pm dinner.
Today’s adventure was to the Perito Moreno Glacier and Los Glaciers National Park. We were on the road incredibly early – early enough to see sunrise at our first viewpoint. The park is the largest ice cap outside of Antarctica and Greenland. The ice field contains the 3rd largest reserve of fresh water. The glaciers ice wall is over three miles wide and rises over 240 feet above the water’s surface. The glacier is viewed from 3 trails over a metal boardwalk stretching over 3 miles. The entire hike draws your full attention awaiting to see the ice caving. We saw a few but I was not fast enough with the camera to capture a good photo. Our guide pointed out a condor circling above but at the distance who could tell. WOW back to the hotel at 4:00 – time for a shower and fine meal at restaurant Mako.
Today we drive northeast through the park crossing the border into Argentina and on to our hotel in El Calafate. A long day – 8 hours of driving. A lot of the drive follows Lake Sarmiento the largest lake in the park and also the only lake in the park which is not glacier fed. Winds were so strong that it developed dirt devils along the water. The scenery speaks for itself. A quick photo stop was made at Lake Torro. A brief stop at Cascada Paine was a welcome stretch of the legs. We continued north along the Amarga Lagoon just outside the park – along the way we stopped to see a heard of guanacos. We arrived at El Carafate for a very late dinner.
Our hotel room came with a balcony and unbelievable views of the Torres del Paine Towers – completely different perspective in morning and evening light. We started our day driving to the Nordenskjol viewpoint along the way we saw the towers from different vantage points, the Rio Serrano River and the winding roads to the parks entrance gate. Of course, it started raining as soon as we entered the park. Still the road was very scenic driving past jagged peaks, lakes and thick forests on our way to the Salto Grande waterfall and the end of the world trail. The trail ended with another Tower view fronted by a Hidden Lake. During our return hike we spotted one of smallest owls I have ever seen maybe 6 inches tall.
We continued the scenic drive along the Paine River and Lake Pehoe to view the Cascade Paine. One last stop on the way back to our hotel was Grey Lake with its grey beach and distant glacier. It was pouring rain when we arrived with wind gusting to 40 mph. As we hiked the rain diminished with a few moments of a rainbow and a glorifying view of the glacier which was 12 MI away. The return hike was a washout with sheets of rain and a constant 30+ mph wind. We headed back to the hotel to dry out & have dinner.
First an apology – we have been on the go from 7am to 9 or 10 pm – leaving little time to work on photos. So, I’m going to show the best I can with the little time I have – then I will update the travel blog when I get back home. So, enjoy the slimmed down version.
Today we boarded a catamaran for a 2-hour sail through the Ulima Esperanza Fjord. BTW it was raining the entire trip with extremely low hanging clouds. Our trip passed the Balmaceda Glacier and several waterfalls in the area. Along the way we viewed nesting cormorants and not so friendly sealions. We disembarked at Puerto Toro for a hike through Bernardo O’Higgins National Park -no joke. The hike to Serrano Glacier covered a forest and along the shoreline leading to a viewing area of the glacier. After the return hike and boat ride we boarded a bus for the 4-hour ride to Torres del Paine NP.
Our second day in Santiago started with a city bus tour of the varied neighborhoods of the city and a walking tour of the “old” city center. Much of the center has been redone in the early 20th century. The presidential palace has been rebuilt after a 1973 Pinochet coup which had started with the air force bombing of the palace, killing Allende who was the world’s 1st elected socialist President in 1970. After the city tour, we headed to Mount San Cristobal for a funicular ride to the mountain top to view the famous 150-foot statue of the Virgin Mary. We had a typical Chilian lunch of chicken and beef “shepherd’s pie” topped with a sweet corn mush. Our afternoon tour was of the Undurraga Winery the oldest in Miapo Valley. The wines were nice, and the tour was interesting especially because it was harvest time & we saw the de-stemming & crushing of the grapes. The owner of the winery has interest in the indigenous Mapuche peoples and had totem poles plus a small museum displaying varied artifacts reflecting their culture. Before heading back to our hotel, we decided to view the Santiago Sculpture Garden about a half hour stroll to the west. It was a very enjoyable walk with an eclectic mix of sculptures and a big hangout for the college crowd. Heading back to the hotel we enjoyed an excellent dinner at Pinpilinpausha in their garden area. Back to the hotel at nine for packing and our 5 am wakeup call for our flight to Patagonia.
Mount San Cristobal
Undurraga Winery
Santiago Sculpture Park
Our 9 1/2-hour flight from Miami had us arriving in Santiago at 7:00 am along with several other flights – so baggage and customs took another hour. Our driver met us after customs, and we found out what rush hour was like in a city of 5.5 million people. Glad the driver had a good set of breaks and was able to avert a stop and go rear ender. Arriving at our hotel in the financial district way too early for check in we left our bags and headed to the city’s Bicentennial Park for a walk along the river and past several statues of Chile’s war heroes. The path ended at the city’s general services and police building with an unusual triangle shape. We headed back to our hotel, stopping for lunch at the city’s oldest restaurant – Confiteria Torres founded in 1879. Meeting the owner, he proudly showed us a photo of him with Secretary of State Blinken taken last October. After getting an early check-in we started another trek to discover the Japanese gardens while walking around the capital city’s largest urban natural area, which is part of the Metropolitan Park. The gardens were small but well-appointed and provided good views of the financial district and especially the Costanela Center Tower – 62 stores and the tallest building in South America. All tolled 21,000 steps and after a group dinner we were ready to call it a night.
Bicentennial Park
Metropolitan Park Japanese Garden
Santiago Street images
We had the opportunity to get a discounted stay at Biltmore’s Village Inn, tour the mansion and experience a Di Vince immersive exhibit. Along with an add-on view of some of the fall scenery in western North Carolina.
It’s been a great trip – good hiking, acceptable golf, and fine dining. We took two short hikes before our final round of golf.
Sapphire Point Overlook is one of the most popular hikes in the county. The hike offers stunning views of the Tenmile Range and Lake Dillon. Sapphire Point Overlook is located at the top of Swan Mountain Pass. The trail is flat, with very minimal elevation gain throughout the 0.6-mile loop. The trail loops around the top of Swan Mountain. As you continue around the loop, you see views of Grays and Torreys Peaks, two fourteener-foot mountains along the Continental Divide.
Our last hike was an easy trail that has spectacular views of the mountains of the Tenmile Range and the Continental Divide. The Old Dillon Reservoir was built in the 1930’s to supply water to the original town of Dillon, which is now covered by the new Dillon Reservoir. The trail is an easy 1.7 mile out and back. Just as we have seen all week long, we are about two weeks early for the Aspens to reach their full color. Timing is everything.
We never had a bad meal in Breckenridge, but I need to give a shout out to The Hearthstone Restaurant for one of the best meals I’ve had and applause to Keystone golf courses for fun and challenges.
Travelling Photographer 